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Peruvian faith peaks: Andean and Catholic beliefs go hand in hand at Qoyllur Riti
[ Jul 11, 2007 10:36:33 ] Peru has always been a very spiritual place, from all of its previous civilizations right up until today. The Incas, Moche and other civilizations left many constructions used for religious rituals, and many religious practices from jungle tribes are still being performed up until this day. Of course, the most widespread religion in Peru today is Catholicism, which the Spanish conquerors imposed on its inhabitants when they arrived centuries ago.
These ancient and more recently adopted religions join forces and celebrate their beliefs in harmony during the festival of Qoyllur Riti, which takes place in the first 2 weeks of June every year in the Qoyllur Riti Sanctuary, 170 kms from Cusco.
Inhabitants of the Andes have always worshipped certain mountains they considered deities, known as Apus, and the Qolquepunco, the mountain that finds itself guarding over the sanctuary of Qoyllur Riti, is one of those deities. But a few hundred years ago, this place also became sacred for the Catholic faith, when the image of Jesus appeared before a young boy, and then imprinted itself on a stone found in the sanctuary. From then on, each year many thousands of people make the pilgrimage to the sanctuary, paying homage to the Se�±or of Qoyllur Riti (the Lord of Qoyllur Riti) with a variety of dances, rituals and offerings.
One reaches the starting point of the hike by bus from Cusco, a journey of about 4 hours. Mawayani, at 4000 meters above sea level, is a small town, that apart from the 2 weeks around the Qoyllur Riti festival, only really performs as a stop for buses on their way to Puerto Maldonado. But in those 2 weeks, it swells up with an endless stream of stalls selling food, toilet paper, biscuits and batteries to those starting and finishing the hike, all through the night.
From Mawayani the actual walk of the pilgrimage is a climb of 800 metres, spread over a distance of almost 9 kilometres, very winding and steep at first (perhaps having the first-time visitors doubt that they will ever make it if this is the route), and straighter and more level after that. If you do the walk during daytime, you will travel through the typical barren landscape of the Andes with its modest vegetation, and crystalline streams and flocks of llamas adorning the endless mountains rising up along both sides of the valley that guides you on your way.
Those traveling at night step into an even more mysterious realm; the Andes at night, undoubtedly feeling the strength of the mountains more intensely because they can�t be perceived visually. Even those that subscribe to neither of the mentioned religions, are being pervaded by a sense of spirituality during the walk, surrounded by locals carrying implausibly big bundles on their back, the air punctuated by the shrill flutes and deep drumbeats of bands that play a simple but somehow haunting tune throughout the 4 hours of the ascent.
You arrive at the church where the image of the Se�±or of Qoyllur Riti is being guarded and worshipped, surrounded by many tents sprawled out around the church and on the plain that you reach crossing a small river, the swarm of tents multiplying each day during the build-up to the main day of celebrations. In and around the church the hustle and bustle never stops: one group of dancers is already lined up as another is still in full swing, girls twirling around in colorful costumes, men acting out scenes with their whips, all supported by an energetic band with drums and flutes to provide the dancers with their relentless energy.
People come here to worship, to carry out offerings, to touch the ice of the everlasting icecap or just for the experience. Some also come here to carry out an ancient tradition: the so-called ukukos, a chosen person from each village, will climb the Qolquepunco mountain and bring back a block of ice to their village, a deed that will be rewarded with an abundance of water for their crops for the coming year.
Something else that can bring real rewards is to head over to the property section of Qoyllur Riti, and buy yourself a plot of land or a house. All over the site ladies walk around yelling: 60,000 dollars for one sol, 60,000 dollars for one sol. It�´s not that the dollar has dropped that much, these ladies sell fake dollars that you use to buy fake properties, located at a determined spot on the site. You can even buy cars, furniture and other artifacts to dress up your newly acquired asset, and buying some Kola Real as a toast to your new home is absolutely indispensable. Superstitious as it may sound to the Western mind, the whole process is taken very seriously, and the property isn�´t legally yours until you and the seller have signed papers with someone acting as a notary. There are also many success stories of those who acquired properties here and, though it could be years later, acquired a similar property in a more life-like size.
Visit Qoyllur Riti to test your physical endurance with the walk and camping at 4800 m.a.s.l. , to worship, or simply to enjoy traditional Peruvian culture that has remained unchanged for many years. It will be a unique and unforgettable experience that will widen your horizons and stay with you for the rest of your life.
